Wednesday, April 13, 2011

A score settled

At 4:00 AM we awoke to the sound of a blast that rattled the windows. Sharon and I looked at each other and wondered if it was an explosion. Peering out between the curtains we saw two boats ablaze. And then another explosion as a tank of gas on one of the boats ruptured. I stood in the window taking photographs and watched as one of the burning boats broke free of its mooring and drifted into the midst of other boats.


It seemed like an eternity before police and the fire department arrived on the scene. Then the fire fighters had a hard time reaching the blazes because of all the enclosed restaurant patios lining the waterfront. It seemed pretty obvious to us that the explosion and fire was a deliberate act. But was it related to the Corsican independence movement or just the settling of a score between local drug lords?

While having breakfast on our balcony, we watched the police crawling over the two burned-out hulks. A third boat was also heavily damaged. The lady at the hotel reception said she thought the bombing was "local vendetta". But it was shocking because it was over ten years since something like this happened.

Setting aside the excitement of the early morning, we ventured out on a hike to Cap Pertusato, a point of land to the west with an old lighthouse. It's the part of Corsica closest to Sardinia. There's a great view of Bonifacio from there. We had a picnic at the lighthouse before making our way back, arriving at our hotel mid afternoon.


A strong southerly wind came up yesterday causing huge swells that crashed against the base of the cliffs along our walk. Conditions did not look good for a boat tour in the morning. But the wind swung around from the north and the seas were much calmer in the late afternoon. So we took a boat tour around Bonifacio harbour and nearby coves, caves and beaches. One sea cave is known as Napoleon's Hat because of it's shape. The cliffs were spectacular in the light of the setting sun.


Tomorrow we will drive along the western shore of Corsica to a town called Campo  near the capital, Ajaccio. This is reputed to be deep Corsican country. I hope the vendetta's are under control.

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